What have you done to your vehicle today?

Brought myself another wideband sensor. The pack up after a while. Not sure if it was just the sensor or the guage, so brought the complete kit.


Someone at the car club mentioned an old car smell from my rear. So going to put cats back on. At the moment the old wideband sensor is in the striaght through pipe in place of the cats. So this will mean I need to relocate the sensor. To do this I need a new screw thread. This guage kit comes with one.
I could drill a hole and get someone to weld it on the. However after issues with Sarahs car after welding I'm not going to chance it. It wont take long to take the long tube header off on the drivers side, drill a hole, get this welded in and pop it back on. I will do photos of the progress.
Last edited:
Yet again Ford owners looking after their cars 👍. That poor camaro gets no maintenance lol.🤣
Camaro is is a heated garage currently at 20c. Warmer than the house. lol.
Actually left 1 computer on using 1kw. This is useful to have a good temprature for epoxy pooring.

Spoke to Paul with the 68 Bullet mustang last night, he has the tools for stainless welding, so I'll take the exhaust manifold to him to get the thread welded in. :)
Taking the drivers side exhaust manifold off to drill a hole and weld in a threaded insert for a wideband sensor. While it's off I'll redo the wrapping.




Old exhaust wrap just fell apart.

Brought a new drill but this goes up to 36mm. I n ended 22mm so this new tool was perfectly I know I had a cone shape one somewhere, I'm sure it will turn up. Still this done the trick.

Cleaned it up, All ready for welding. It's stainless. Someone has the offered to weld it for me.

More exhaust wrap on its way. Hope to swap in cats this week.
New exhuast wrap arrived today.
Dug out the old high flow cats in the shed. I'll be putting these on when that exhaust header goes back on.

Can see right through them.
It looks like rolled up corrugated cardboard.
Last edited:
Why are you putting them back on you failed mot or been stopped by the rozzers as James may would say lol.🤣 They shouldn't be able to catch you with 630BHP lol.🤣 In a straight line lol 😁😜
Why are you putting them back on you failed mot or been stopped by the rozzers as James may would say lol.🤣 They shouldn't be able to catch you with 630BHP lol.🤣 In a straight line lol 😁😜
I will loose 1HP according to dyno readings at the time of buying the long tube headers. Yes could out run the police if no traffic but at 173mph(may get it into 6th gear next time) the tank empties in 10mins, so they could just wait by a fuel station for me to come in. lol.
Its mainly for the sound, above 2500 rpm it sounds fine, on tick over nice and lumpy, a great crackle to it. However I always try to avoid load at 2000rpm, it sounds raspy, or like a 1862 Gatling gun. I did have cats on before. It did muffle the sound and found I could accepelerate through 2000rpm without the same noise. So its mainly for sounds benefit. Plus someone cruising in the club behind me did notice some odd smells. The car does smell a bit fuel like on a warm start. So I'm aiming to do some further tuning around that area. General driving is all tuned in for when up to temprature. Just need to dabble with other areas.
Another tool arrive to remove the oxygen sensors.
A 22mm spanner fits, but a rin one dosn;t go over the sensor plug, and an open ended wont quite grip it due to it being seized in there even after a good dose of penertration oil. Heat it up and a bit of this will work wonders.

The new thread is welded into the long tube header now.

I'll be having a play in the morning. Get the wrapping on that header, and make some progress with getting it all back together.
Plan today is to:-

  • Wrap that 1 exhaust header.
  • Fit the wideband sensor
  • Remove straight through pipes on both side insert cats on both sides.
  • Remove rocker cover, manually turn engine looking at rockers, reason for this to check why that one port is black. Think that port had a leaking valve stem seals, so it may be old black stuff.
  • Refit exhaust manifold.
  • Electrically wire up wide band.
  • Connect to laptop.
  • Load in new tune.
  • Fire up, and log idle parameters, perhaps do some idle tuning.
Should be achievable, but I'm sure some hurdles will pop up.
and all done with out using you PIT coz you wont work on swmnbo car would of made life so much easier lol,,,,,,,,, you know it makes sense
Yeah would be far easier over the pit.

Didn't get as much done as I first planned.
Header wrapped, and it's back on the car. Plugs in
couldn't get through old straight through pipes off, the metal clamp bolts don't want to unscrew. Hard to get to the bolts to cut. A job for another day.

You know one exhaust hole was blacker than the others. Wanted to prove it wasn't mechanical. Push rods had no play so not bent. How about cam lobes or hydraulic lifters. Needed to remove the rocker cover and manually turn the engine. Really needed another set of eyes to watch thile I struggle to turn it (only 4 plugs in at this point) I got all puffed out.
after watching the video back they all seem to move as much as the next. Springs compress the same amount. Although 1mm would make a huge difference and not be visual. I dont feel lack of performance, but not easy to tune each cylinder to be the same. Wonder how far off it is. Perhaps it's old black stuff in the exhaust from when I had a leaking valve seal.
Do a compression test unless you got to buy one they are not that expensive
Do a compression test unless you got to buy one they are not that expensive
Done that when the valve stem seals were done. All looked pretty even across cylinders.

Done a bit of idle tuning. It was pretty close, fuel mixture isn't burning my eyes, so that seems to tally up with the new sensor. Checked the log, made tiny adjustments ready to zap in new settings.

On leaving the A27 services for this morning's breakfast run to Goodwood, the Camaro wouldn't start and had immobilised. The yellow key light was flashing and it wouldn't crank.
Thanks to Dan's knowledge and advice, I locked the car, waited a couple of minutes for the immobiliser light to stop flashing, then unlocked it and tried again. Fired straight up!
Turns out it's probably an intermittent connection to the key contacts in the ignition lock. Again, info from Dan. Massive thanks to him for hanging around while I got mine started and for his advice 👍😎
Update ! I think I found the immobilising problem with the Camaro. See Dan's previous forum post (link below), as mine was a similar issue.

The same resistor mod had been done on mine, but the resistor was just pushed into the connector and not crimped or soldered. So maybe it wasn't always making connection. I bared the wires, soldered the resistor on and insulated it as Dan did on the TA. The car seems to start OK every time now. Cheers again Dan for the info 👍

Here is how I found the resistor (but with insulating tape over it)
After I soldered in the resistor and before I insulated it.
Was going to buy a new 3rd brake light that's in that spoiler. Saw various ones online. Then thought, didn't someone give me a light 5 or 6 years ago. Found it, it's was given to me by Steve Fullum(Pontiac Steve), he sadly past away. Great to get this light out and fit it at last. Thanks Steve.