New sound from the TransAm on starting

Parts ordered
1712908022123.png
 
New oil filters arrived, same part number I have had before.
1000066213.jpg
 
Tracking number received for the parts. Its not showing up as an expected date yet. I tihnk it could be Monday though.
 
Well, If that is a spring and not helical thread you really have to ask where that came from and where has it been in the engine to end up like that ???
Yeah odd isn't it. Could it be swarf? Can't think anywhere that a small spring like that can come from.
 
i was thinking swarf. however lip seals often have small diameter springs in them
 
Okay something interesting. I took off the aux belt.
Manually turn engine, it moved relatively smoth, occasional more resistance, but not really noticibly. No odd noises.
Then I turn each of the pulley wheels by hand, Power Steering, Alternator, Waterpump, idler wheels, everything seems smooth.

Now with nothing attachched I go to start it, its spinning quick now, no odd noise at all. It was definately banging the other day.

Still no oil pressure when cranking.

Now its on a tilt, perhaps something moved. Probably still needs a look inside the sump, a pig of a job, need to release engine mounts and remove stuff off the top of the engine, then ratched strap the engine to a cross bar to lift it 2 inches so the sump can be removed.
Watched your video again, from what audio i can pick up it sounds a bit like either a spark plug wasn't sealing or the same noise when a diesel injector seal has failed and you get a chuffing sound,,when you tried it with plugs out there was no noise which to me indicates the noise was present with engine compression
 
A quick search for 'Spring loaded seals' makes me feel Renchero is right. Saw some seal products with really similar springs in them.
 
i was thinking swarf. however lip seals often have small diameter springs in them
You are right I have seen seals like that before. I was chatting to Malc about the spring on the seals. I tihnk if I have one it would be on the back brankchaft seal, or the front crankshaft seal.
The front cover has the seal in it,
1713013294109.png


1713013319866.png

No spring seal here, perhaps its damaged and gone.
So looked at new replacement ones, no spring there. So nothing missing on mine. I do have a new seal coming as part of the timing cover gasket kit.
1713013457464.png

I may find more in the filter...
 
Watched your video again, from what audio i can pick up it sounds a bit like either a spark plug wasn't sealing or the same noise when a diesel injector seal has failed and you get a chuffing sound,,when you tried it with plugs out there was no noise which to me indicates the noise was present with engine compression
Audio extremly poor, echo in the garage isn't helping too.
It was a metalic sound and could feel it in the chassis(poly engine mounts). The other difference when I took the plugs out was removing the passenger rocker cover. I should have changed one thing at a time.
 
Spent a bit of time in the garage to work on the T/A

I have some new poersteering pipes to go with the new power steering rack.
Needed to remove the pipe from the power steering pump. I have pipe spanners, but just couldn't get in there. Removing the wheel could help, but even if I had the removal tool, how do you get it back on?
1713039037912.png


Well I decided to remove the pump. Just 3 bolts to take it off, simple right? well no so...
1713039187205.png

Not so easy to get a spanner in there, can just about do it with 1/8th of a turn each time. Bolt turn out to be about 1 inch long.
1713039239295.png


Could get a spanner on it, but it was just too tight. Cant apply heat due to the plastic fluid tank. So I got a dremel cutting disk on the pipe. Having to take care of the swarf.
1713039432660.png


Then I could get a socket on it.
1713039460917.png


New pipe fitted.
1713039535724.png

All bck in its place now.
1713039580403.png


Next was to refit the alternator.
1713039605877.png


These are all parts that wont be in the way when rfitting the engine mounts and the sump and k-member.
 
View of the timing chain while turning over on the starter.

View of the crank while turning over on th starter.
 
Checking the timing dots were aligned and the chain hadnt jumped.
1713040515566.png



Remobed the cog and chain.
1713040546014.png
 
How did you tighten up the new power steering pipe flare nut after not being able to remove it in situ?

Certainly looked a bit tricky to get it undone.
 
How did you tighten up the new power steering pipe flare nut after not being able to remove it in situ?

Certainly looked a bit tricky to get it undone.
Good question. The old one was seized around the top part of the nut to the pump. Once initial crack it was easy to undo. Couldn't apply heat, could have let it soak in penetration oil I guess, but really wanted to get this off as the next job it cleaning gasket faces and fitting the steering rack.
The new one was done up with a pipe spanner as tight as I could get it. The edges of the nut were firm, better grip without the spanner falling off. Can't see it coming loose, although will need to check all new joints from time to time once it's all running. It better not come loose as it's a pain to get to.
 
Before you put the sump on,,I would if possible crank the engine on the key to listen for any noise and as a test install one spark plug at a time in the event that once a cylinder is closed and can produce compression pressure you have not got the noise returning,,,Just my view on it
 
Good idea, I can certainly do that. Up for trying anything.
I have the timing cogs off at the mo. New pump and timing chain set coming tomorrow. So I will aim to get the new bits bolted on, pop in the plugs and turn it over.
Just been out in the garage, no photos as phone was indoors charging. Phone usually charges in the day when working, so routine all different at the weekend. Got the new steering rack on, very stiff to turn the threaded bit to get them in the track rod ends. Got it in place, not attempted tracking yet. The hydraulic bit I may do this evening. It's coming together with no real hurdles.
 
"""Before you put the sump on,,I would if possible crank the engine on the key to listen for any noise and as a test install one spark plug at a time in the event that once a cylinder is closed and can produce compression pressure you have not got the noise returning,,,Just my view on it""""
July92rs As henry cole would say good point well made lol,,,,,


tempted fate now No real hurdles will be now lol,,,
 
I will need tool for the bottom crank sprocket, removal and install of the new.
I will post a pic later of the tool as out walking dogs at the mo.
Also could do with the threaded bar or bolt to aid the install of the bottom pulley wheel.
 
Couldn't wait till later, internet works in the woods.
Looks like a regular puller can do it.
1000066336.png



The proper tool looks like this.
1000066337.png
 

Attachments

  • 1000066336.png
    1000066336.png
    1.3 MB · Views: 4
Back
Top