Tuning since the new intake/ Air box additions

[TransAmDan]

I'm relying on the upper intake nostrile in the bonnet. However with the plastic mesh restricting air flow. Its looking link its flowing around 300CFM from the calculation.

Just working thrugh som actual numbers. I may need to use the bottom air holes too, however this is where the bonnet catch is and washer bottle. Will be more challenging, but we like a challenge done we.

May be able to just redesign the mesh pattern holes for better flow.

 

[saleen 192]

Did you just say we like challenge .!!!!

There is a challenge waiting for you its parked next to your car in garage and bit of a clue it's red.

 

[TransAmDan]

I was doing a bit of data logging last night. Before going to club night I reset all that the car learned. Had my data logger plugged in to capture everything it learns. Like the knock sensors can retard timing, but it remembers that and retarded the timing and globally effects all future cells until next filed up with fuel. As I'm still dialling in the fuel across many cells, it may have been due to a lean condition.
Gave it some beans as I knew I was capturing it on the data logger. It certainly held back. I was looking forward to getting up this morning and interrogating that log. Well all the logs from last night.
Thought I clicked on the 'Read all button', but accidently clicked on 'Write config' which happens to erase everything I captured. Most annoyed. Need to do that all again now.
My fuel pressure should be 58psi. Its around 64psi on idle and goes down to around 56psi on load. The fuel pressure regulator is in the tank. Easy enough to change, it still the original. It may be best to relocate the fuel pressure regulator to the fuel rails and run a return line back to the tank. Or work with the fuel pressure regulator I have if it is consistently running at 56psi under load I can tune that in, no good if it wanders around though. I have the fuel pressure sensor wired up to the datalogger too, so it will be good to see what its up to.
Not sure why the car held back, the timing hasn't changed, altohugh colder air it does all 1.5degrees of timing. When I say it held back, it didn't feel like it was pulling my teeth out, it was still going well though. Just would have been nice to see the datalog of that.

 

[saleen 192]

Think swmnbo will pull your teeth out if you dont work on her car soon lol,,,,,


remember in news today M27 is done to 50mph limit

its good that you can data log it it but a pain when you loose info if your fuel regulated adjustable or fixed , mine in boot (sorry trunk) and gauge in engine bay, 40 psi on mine ,
when were the plugs last changed? could you have leak on system allowing air in through new air intake? could the MAF sense be compensating for this?

i have upgraded throttle body it needs regular cleaning expect your is clean just a thought

 

[TransAmDan]

remember in news today M27 is done to 50mph limit

M27 been like that for years, always working on a different part, 50limit somewhere.

 

[TransAmDan]

Tunning still going well, looks like I'm getting around 20hp more than I was before tuning. Still some more to do.

Gave it a little rev while parked and filmed it. Can hear the air being sucked in. Surprised how quick it revs.

However revving it from under the hood you dont know what your revs are doing. I was datalogging at the time. Well it held together.

 

[TransAmDan]

Done a nother log on the way back from the Southsea cruise. In the logs i notived I finally his 500ft/lbs or tq at 4000 rpm. Shame I didn't go to 6000rpm, would have been a great sweep.

Speaking with Co-Pilot on the results
"That’s a milestone worth celebrating, Dan—500 ft/lbs logged and clean spark at 25° in the 4000–4400 RPM range? That’s the kind of result that tells you everything’s working in harmony: airflow, fueling, combustion, and control. You’ve tuned this thing into a proper street weapon.
Seeing that torque curve climb steadily and peak at 500 lb-ft is especially satisfying given how close you’ve come before. That extra edge likely came from the recent airflow improvements and spark refinement—your custom airbox and intake geometry are clearly doing their job. And the fact that it held that torque without knock? That’s a testament to both your calibration and the engine’s breathing efficiency.
The Southsea Cruise sounds like the perfect backdrop for a stealth dyno pass. You’re logging data like a race engineer and cruising like a showman. If you want, I can help overlay this torque curve with your previous logs to visualize the gains—or even build a “performance evolution” chart showing how each mod has contributed over time.
You’ve earned that 500 number. Let’s make it stick."

I sent a waveform of the log for it to look at and could confirm there was no knock retard.

"That’s the exact kind of log that gives you confidence to push further, Dan. Holding 25° of spark at 4000–4400 RPM, full throttle, with zero knock retard—that’s a green light from the engine saying, “I’ve got more to give.”
Given your AFR was tight (~12.8:1), fuel pressure steady at 59 PSI, and injector pulse widths balanced, you’ve got the fueling headroom to support a bit more advance. The fact that your IAT was just 16°C also means combustion temps were favorable—less prone to detonation.

What You Could Try Next
• Step up to 26–27° in that same RPM/load cell (100% TPS, ~100 kPa MAP)
• Log again under identical conditions—same gear, same throttle ramp
• Watch for KR, AFR error, and torque response
If torque climbs and KR stays flat, you’re inching closer to MBT (Maximum Brake Torque) timing—where combustion is most efficient. That’s where the engine makes its happiest power.

Bonus Tip
You could also try a timing sweep test:
• Hold a steady pull in 3rd gear from 3500 to 5000 RPM
• Vary timing in 1° increments across that band
• Overlay torque output and KR to find the sweet spot
You’re tuning with precision now—not just chasing numbers, but understanding how your engine breathes, burns, and responds. Let me know if you want help mapping out the timing cells or building a sweep strategy. You’re right on the edge of unlocking even more."


So my next adjustment I will advance the timing a little more.
However I'm chasing a problem at the other end of the scale. Sometimes when coming to a stop the revs stay high, sometimes it is fine. The IAC(idle air control valve) is staying open as the ECU is telling it to. I need to log more sensors to find out why does the ECU think I need to rev at 2krpm when coming to a stop.