Line Lock fitting

TransAmDan

Forum Admin
Staff member
Well today I'm going to finally wire up the line lock. A long time ago, during the engine rebuild (about 3 years?) I fitted a balance valve between front and rear brakes and also a line lock solenoid. This solenoid is connected to earth, but the positive wire doesn't go anywhere yet. this needs to go to a dash switch fed by an ignition live.

I've popped out to the garage to put the air con on as its going to be a warm day.

Need to decide the switch position and get the positive wire to that switch, a little bit of soldering.

I'll do photos when I start.
 

AmericanThunder

Super Moderator
I had a master arm switch on the console immediately in front of the shifter and the actual push for line-lock was on the shifter shaft itself.
 

TransAmDan

Forum Admin
Staff member
I wasn't sure weather to put it on the left or right of the dash. I was thinking on the left, but may be near the shiftier is a better idea.
I guess you don't want to touch it with normal driving and you would disable your front brakes. Not a lot of room on a manual shift knob to mount a switch.
 

AmericanThunder

Super Moderator
I wasn't sure weather to put it on the left or right of the dash. I was thinking on the left, but may be near the shiftier is a better idea.
I guess you don't want to touch it with normal driving and you would disable your front brakes. Not a lot of room on a manual shift knob to mount a switch.

The master arm switch is just that. Flicking that whilst driving would have no impact. The push for lock button only works when the master arm switch is on and you have pressed the brakes and then held pressure with the push button. You won’t disable front brakes although you could lock them on unexpectedly. But then all you would do is let go of the push button.
 

TransAmDan

Forum Admin
Staff member
IMG_20200808_140621.jpg

IMG_20200808_141726.jpg
 

TransAmDan

Forum Admin
Staff member
IMG_20200808_142908.jpg
Soldered together heatshrunk with glue heatshrunk and braided covering to inside the car. All coming together.

Note to self, dont touch ouchy end of heat gun when putting it down.
 

saleen 192

Core Member
DOH , Did someone burn there finger lol not tried those pre solder heat shrink crimp connectors
 

TransAmDan

Forum Admin
Staff member
DOH , Did someone burn there finger lol not tried those pre solder heat shrink crimp connectors
Used to use them at work, when making signs for trains they demanded these joints rather than crimps. So got hold of some, sleeved over the top to hide them.
 

TransAmDan

Forum Admin
Staff member
IMG_20200808_144601.jpg

IMG_20200808_154445.jpg

IMG_20200808_154510.jpg
Fitted.

While I was at it I finally wired up power to the amp in the boot. For some time I have only been running the speakers in the front. Now all speakers are working with a fused wire from the battery in nice sleeving to the boot. Already had a switched live available from the electric aerial. Forgotten how good it sounds.
 

saleen 192

Core Member
replace that horrible fog light switch shame on you lol
whats the carpet on the dashboard for lol
 

TransAmDan

Forum Admin
Staff member
Well tried this out, and its not working. The switch is good, got 12V at the solonoid, but its not holding the front brakes. I dont feel a click in the solonoid when activated, should you?
Just posted the question on LS1Tech, https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspension-brakes/1940257-line-lock-issue.html#post20277998 as I dont even know what kit I brought, I thought it was SJM, and my main place I would buy stuff like this from is www.ws6store.com. Where its been soo long I wouldn't have the fitting instructions. There were 4 holes on the solonoid, and we would have connected it up to how the inctructions showed.

Not in a rush to get this working as not used it in the 3 years its been fitted. lol.
IMG_20200810_090421.jpg
 

saleen 192

Core Member
how have you tested for 12v test meter just on the red and on battery or arcoss the black and red on solenoid or even on red lead and on body of solonid? you will also hve a coil resistance for the solenoid but with out knowing spec wont know what the presice ohms will be but no resistance or ohms then coil is knackered
 

AmericanThunder

Super Moderator
Well tried this out, and its not working. The switch is good, got 12V at the solonoid, but its not holding the front brakes. I dont feel a click in the solonoid when activated, should you?

Obvious question but you are pressing and holding the brakes as you push the button?
 

TransAmDan

Forum Admin
Staff member
Obvious question but you are pressing and holding the brakes as you push the button?
Yes correct, press brakes, energise solonoid, leave power on solonoid and lift up brake, put it in gear and lift of the clutch and it rolls like there is no brake effort at all.
Solonoid does draw current, dont know how much as current meter not working, its less than 15A.
 

saleen 192

Core Member

an88fiero

Super Moderator
sneaky feeling you posted on here about this when you bought the kit - have you checked on here in case you posted instructions etc :)
 

Will

Core Member
I would expect the solenoid to emit at least a quiet click when energised. I may be wrong but I've never known a completely silent solenoid lol. Assuming it is meant to make a noise, if it has 12v across it and is taking current, it could be siezed.
 

TransAmDan

Forum Admin
Staff member
sneaky feeling you posted on here about this when you bought the kit - have you checked on here in case you posted instructions etc :)
Ah yeah, you could be right.
 
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