Attempt to repair rear light crack.

[TransAmDan]

For a long time I have had a crack on the rear light. But I have put a tinted cover over it to hide it. Can it be repaired, we'll it's worth a go. Replacements are like rocking horse do do's. I have spare UK spec ones, but that US honeycone ones, come up for $500 but they tend to be scams.

Just 5 hand twist nuts holding it on. A view from inside the boot.

Crack is pretty bad.

Using a dremel to cut in a V. Just doing a small area first.

Let it fill the gap. I'm hoping it fills the gap and goes totally clear and steep into the crack. I don't mind if it needs another mix of glue on top. Or if it sits proud as can sand and polish.

I'll leave it overnight and check tomorrow.

 

[renchero]

might be a market to get these remade ?

 

[TransAmDan]

Yeah, I wonder if they could be refurbished. Not sure where to go yet, I could search a bit.

Found a pair for $899, plus shipping.
https://www.hawksmotorsports.com/1998-02-firebird-tail-lights-set-oem-refurbished/

 

[saleen 192]

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[TransAmDan]

Lots of Left Hand ones come up, but the Right seems to rarer, not sure why that is.

 

[chris68coupe]

Don't forget that we are driving our Yanks on the 'Wrong side of the road'. Could be more stone damage over there?

 

[saleen 192]

What about your mate at autopontiac

 

[TransAmDan]

What about your mate at autopontiac

Yes, that will be on of the fall back plans.

I dont think my Areldite is going hard enough, perhaps its old, done a couple of test mixes on pater, and its ment to go of in 90mins, be full hard in a couple of hours, well a day later if i put my finger in it it leaves a print.

I thinkl I'm going to get some Epoxy resin. I have got the crack looking pretty good in one spot by sanding it out, but I have a long way to go. I think Resin could wok to fill the troff, although it cures level, and the lights are not flat, this will create a challenge.
If it cant be fixed, I have a backup plan.

I have a light cluster in the loft, all fully working, good condition, probably only 20k miles on them. A little polish and they could be like new.
You may be asking, well why dont you use them? well I like the honeycome pattern on the US spec lights. If I use these ones I'll be back to amber indicators.

 

[TransAmDan]

The clear plastic is quite thick. Got a nice groove in there to dig out the crack as much as possible. The red colour appears to be bonded from the other side.
I think epoxy resin will work for this. It's very runny and goes through the smallest of gaps, so as the light is curved I'll need to mount something for the epoxy pour.

 

[TransAmDan]

Resin has arrived. I'll do a test on something else first before repairing the light.

 

[TransAmDan]

I've chosen to do a test pour of the resin. Mixed up 30g of bottle A, and 15g of bottle B. Needed to mix for a few mins, needed something paddle like I could put in a drill. Found a little dremel spanner, this worked well in that chuck of the drill. Mixing went well. Poured in to an unused spray can lid. Takes 24 hour to cure. This will be interesting, as I will find how well it sticks to the lid, did the pour contain bubbles, how easy is it to sand, how hard it is.
It's car club tonight, so even if the results are perfect, I won't have time to do the pour n that light. I need to create a box on the light to contain the liquid as the light isn't flat. Will need to be high areas so that low areas are full.

 

[saleen 192]

you redneck lol,

 

[chris68coupe]

Have a look on 'You tube' or look for past episodes of 'The repair shop'. I think you probably need to build up layers of the resin or build a wall around the crack, using modeling clay or wax or something. Try and find something that will not stick to the resin.

 

[TransAmDan]

Have a look on 'You tube' or look for past episodes of 'The repair shop'. I think you probably need to build up layers of the resin or build a wall around the crack, using modeling clay or wax or something. Try and find something that will not stick to the resin.

I've been watching this guy alot, interesting the tables he makes with wood encapsulated in the resin, He builds moulds to contain it. I think I'll need to build some sort of mould. He does flat edges, I may need something like clay or wax, This guy does some amazing tables and he sells them off.

 

[chris68coupe]

Just watched that video, very good!

 

[renchero]

if you can put the mix in a vacuum before poring that would remove the bubbles.

 

[TransAmDan]

if you can put the mix in a vacuum before poring that would remove the bubbles.

Yeah I've seen that in some of the online videos.
I have a Henry but I dont think that could work.

 

[TransAmDan]

Found one:- https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0C53M3...e=osi&th=1&psc=1&ascsubtag=ecSEP68wkjls1wpa5u

I done a test pour into an old WD40 cap, there were some very tiny bubbles in there.

 

[TransAmDan]

Created a troff with paper and selotape.

Mixed up 120g of stuff with my Dremel spanner on a drill.

Hopefully it stays in the troff. Crack still visible but atleast it will be encapsulated.

 

[TransAmDan]

Ready to start using the orbital sander.

Went well so far. More tomorrow.