AmericanThunder
Super Moderator
Sounds like you are almost there!
-
Renegades working with Beaulieu to put on this show on 16th June 2024. Renegades meeting at Rownhams Services to leave at 8.00am to convoy down to Beaulieu.
https://www.solent-renegades.co.uk/threads/beaulieu-custom-and-american-show-16th-june-2024.55909/
Running Trans-Am In
- Thread starter TransAmDan
- Start date
saleen 192
Core Member
AmericanThunder
Super Moderator
Still all good Dan?
Yes, Took it out last night, only a short trip to my friends ans he needed some tools to fix his car. Ran well, and left card in the driveway, parked in the same spot, checked the card this morning, no drips. No smell of hot oil, but it was only a 4 mile round trip.
Taking it to Port Solent tonight for an american car gathering. I'll check oil level before I leave home, and again tomorrow morning. May even take a look underneath on Saturday before the trip to Worthing on Sunday. The following Sunday(Aug 6th) I will be at Kelmarsh, which is about 150miles away.
Taking it to Port Solent tonight for an american car gathering. I'll check oil level before I leave home, and again tomorrow morning. May even take a look underneath on Saturday before the trip to Worthing on Sunday. The following Sunday(Aug 6th) I will be at Kelmarsh, which is about 150miles away.
AmericanThunder
Super Moderator
Good news, and we will be at Kelmarsh too.
Great, I'll be on the Pontiac stand, get to park with others the same as mine, well with smaller engines. ;P will be great to meet and chat to them and swap ideas.
AmericanThunder
Super Moderator
Oooh 455ci that will be nice to see. Makes my 383ci seem small.
AmericanThunder
Super Moderator
There ain't no replacement for displacement!
I have a problem still, and its still oil related.
Drove to Worthing, did get a whiff of oil at one point, but people behind didn't notice smoke, or smell it. Got to worthing, had breakfast, took photos, a few hours later checked oil. It had lost a little. It was around 3/4's of the cross hatch section. Topped it up, I would say about half a mug of oil, perhaps 200ml or less. Got home, checked oil the next day, it was down to around 3/4's.
Jacked car up yesterday, the area it was leaking before, it totally dry, filter looks good, sides of sump look good. However between the sump and bell housing it was a little damp. Also one of the long bolts at the back I could wobble with fingers, I took this out and the end of the bolt was not there, it has snapped. Now this bolt doesn't support much as the bell housing holds the sump to the block also. Stress of bumps to working perhaps? it was done to torque, perhaps old and brittle.
So basically I have a wheeping sump at the back, and a broken bolt(I can only assume the rest of the bolt is in the block). This will mean the sump has to totally come off to repair it.
Took it out for a little drive last night, giving it more beans, felt good, looking for smoke. Actually had a good puff of smoke when I gave it beans in front of a Prius, subseqent beans did not give smoke. Pootling behind a car doing 20mph the car does not like, the car wanted to go after that, think it just wanted to give out a puff of smoke so the car behind could breath it in.
The reason for the blast around is to see how much oil I can loose. It went down a little not as must as the trip to Worthing. If the car fit for Kelmarsh... well that was the reason for my oil test consumption. I believe if I am careful and take oil with me, I can make it there without needing to top up. I have a low oil light that I know that works, will check oil at services on the way up, its only 150miles, so double the trip to worthing. Worse comes to worse I get really stuck I do have RAC cover. I'm sure it will be fine though. If trip to worthing anything to go by, then trip to Kelmarsh wihch full oil, I will get there with between 3/4's and 1/2 on the drip stick cross hatchings.
To fix issue, its engine out, or somehow support engine in engine bay, drop steering rack and cross member so I can take the sump totally off. Will need to weigh up which is easier. I know you can drop then engine out the bottom on the suspension so you can wheel it around, well that is no use as I still need to get to the sump.
Drove to Worthing, did get a whiff of oil at one point, but people behind didn't notice smoke, or smell it. Got to worthing, had breakfast, took photos, a few hours later checked oil. It had lost a little. It was around 3/4's of the cross hatch section. Topped it up, I would say about half a mug of oil, perhaps 200ml or less. Got home, checked oil the next day, it was down to around 3/4's.
Jacked car up yesterday, the area it was leaking before, it totally dry, filter looks good, sides of sump look good. However between the sump and bell housing it was a little damp. Also one of the long bolts at the back I could wobble with fingers, I took this out and the end of the bolt was not there, it has snapped. Now this bolt doesn't support much as the bell housing holds the sump to the block also. Stress of bumps to working perhaps? it was done to torque, perhaps old and brittle.
So basically I have a wheeping sump at the back, and a broken bolt(I can only assume the rest of the bolt is in the block). This will mean the sump has to totally come off to repair it.
Took it out for a little drive last night, giving it more beans, felt good, looking for smoke. Actually had a good puff of smoke when I gave it beans in front of a Prius, subseqent beans did not give smoke. Pootling behind a car doing 20mph the car does not like, the car wanted to go after that, think it just wanted to give out a puff of smoke so the car behind could breath it in.
The reason for the blast around is to see how much oil I can loose. It went down a little not as must as the trip to Worthing. If the car fit for Kelmarsh... well that was the reason for my oil test consumption. I believe if I am careful and take oil with me, I can make it there without needing to top up. I have a low oil light that I know that works, will check oil at services on the way up, its only 150miles, so double the trip to worthing. Worse comes to worse I get really stuck I do have RAC cover. I'm sure it will be fine though. If trip to worthing anything to go by, then trip to Kelmarsh wihch full oil, I will get there with between 3/4's and 1/2 on the drip stick cross hatchings.
To fix issue, its engine out, or somehow support engine in engine bay, drop steering rack and cross member so I can take the sump totally off. Will need to weigh up which is easier. I know you can drop then engine out the bottom on the suspension so you can wheel it around, well that is no use as I still need to get to the sump.
Last edited:
AmericanThunder
Super Moderator
If you disconnect engine mounts and exhaust would you have enough room to remove the sump?
So, are you thinking the puff of smoke is oil being burnt on the exhaust or is it blowing past the rings and being burnt in the combustion chamber?
So, are you thinking the puff of smoke is oil being burnt on the exhaust or is it blowing past the rings and being burnt in the combustion chamber?
Sadly disconnecting the engine mounts will not be enough, as cant lift the engine high in the ending bay, even if I take the intake off, as the bell housing will hit the tunnel. I could probably raise it half inch to an inch.
Found a video of removing the pan, but needing to disconnect suspension and need an engine hoist to support the block.
[video=youtube;UmqIyEjR6mY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UmqIyEjR6mY[/video]
The sump needs to drop a couple of inches to be able to get it out. Towards the front is the clearance issue will be as has to clear the crank and plate, but this is where the sump pretty much touches the subframe, you cant even get a finger in there.
I think the puff of smoke, is a bit of blow by in the rings, that will probably go with time, it seems to happen when idling at a stupidly slow speed and then giving it some, and after getting up to speed, and giving it some beans later in the journey there was no smoke again. A little bit of smoke on start up. I think it is very minimal, its more black than blue, so may be over rich on start up, new coils and injectors may sort that.
Found a video of removing the pan, but needing to disconnect suspension and need an engine hoist to support the block.
[video=youtube;UmqIyEjR6mY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UmqIyEjR6mY[/video]
The sump needs to drop a couple of inches to be able to get it out. Towards the front is the clearance issue will be as has to clear the crank and plate, but this is where the sump pretty much touches the subframe, you cant even get a finger in there.
I think the puff of smoke, is a bit of blow by in the rings, that will probably go with time, it seems to happen when idling at a stupidly slow speed and then giving it some, and after getting up to speed, and giving it some beans later in the journey there was no smoke again. A little bit of smoke on start up. I think it is very minimal, its more black than blue, so may be over rich on start up, new coils and injectors may sort that.
AmericanThunder
Super Moderator
And you can't unbolt the sump and rotate it just enough to be able to drill out the broken bolt?
Good idea, but it is a little to far in from the edge, perhaps.
This is the hole where the bolt has snapped. Who knows a bit of the bolt may be poking out and may be able to get pliers on it.
At present the sump isn't leaking any more than before the bolt snap. The sealant along the back of the sump behind the flywheel was a bit hit and miss to get on, got some sealant on the end of a screwdriver and wiped it along the gasket. So if I do take the sump off, I'd like to take it all off and get a good clean seal along the back too.
This is the hole where the bolt has snapped. Who knows a bit of the bolt may be poking out and may be able to get pliers on it.
At present the sump isn't leaking any more than before the bolt snap. The sealant along the back of the sump behind the flywheel was a bit hit and miss to get on, got some sealant on the end of a screwdriver and wiped it along the gasket. So if I do take the sump off, I'd like to take it all off and get a good clean seal along the back too.
AmericanThunder
Super Moderator
Sounds like you know you have to do it and engine out or raised far enough is the only way. I might be tempted to replace the sump and buy all new bolts too. At least you know the sump edges are flat and some decent ARP bolts won't snap.
New bolts ordered. Well not paid for them yet, but emailed them last night to add them to the order with the other bits. Will call tonight from club night to pay for it all.
AmericanThunder
Super Moderator
IIRC aren't there different sumps available for the LS1? Did one variety use the bat wing sump due to clearance issues? Maybe Corvette? Any advantage to switching if it's possible?
saleen 192
Core Member
Good idea about differnt sump A.T,
Well my order is in the UK, now long now.
Ordered:-
Racetronix 42LB High Impedence Fuel Injectors,
LS1/LS6 Grantelli Motor Sports Coil On Plug Wires (Solid Core) - w/Red High Temp Sleeved Cable & Black Fire Sleeve
98-02 LS1/LS6 MSD Multiple Spark Coil Kit (Set of 8)
Obviously need to sort the sump oil issue first.
Its coming together, makes you feel drained where it's almost there, but not quite.
Ordered:-
Racetronix 42LB High Impedence Fuel Injectors,
-Static Flow Rate: 42.29 lb/hr @ 43.5PSI
-Static Flow Rate: 48.83 lb/hr @ 58.0PSI
-Dynamic Flow Rate: 9.96 gm/pulse - 2.5ms pulse width and 10ms repetition rate @ 43.5PSI
-Coil Resistance: 15.9 Ohms / High Impedance / High-Z (No ECM driver modifications required)
Racetronix 42LB High Impedence Fuel Injectors | WS6store.com
-Static Flow Rate: 48.83 lb/hr @ 58.0PSI
-Dynamic Flow Rate: 9.96 gm/pulse - 2.5ms pulse width and 10ms repetition rate @ 43.5PSI
-Coil Resistance: 15.9 Ohms / High Impedance / High-Z (No ECM driver modifications required)
Racetronix 42LB High Impedence Fuel Injectors | WS6store.com
LS1/LS6 Grantelli Motor Sports Coil On Plug Wires (Solid Core) - w/Red High Temp Sleeved Cable & Black Fire Sleeve
These Granatelli's coil on plug connectors are designed to help improve gas mileage and throttle response. They help improve spark with 0 ohms of resistance and no radio interference. These are direct OEM replacements, and won't void your factory warranty.
LS1/LS6 Grantelli Motor Sports Coil On Plug Wires (Solid Core) - w/Red High Temp Sleeved Cable & Black Fire Sleeve | WS6store.com
LS1/LS6 Grantelli Motor Sports Coil On Plug Wires (Solid Core) - w/Red High Temp Sleeved Cable & Black Fire Sleeve | WS6store.com
98-02 LS1/LS6 MSD Multiple Spark Coil Kit (Set of 8)
MSD Ignition's Multiple Spark Coils (MSC) will fit in place of the stock GM LS coils and connect directly to the factory connectors. Once installed, you'll have the power and performance of higher energy sparks, crowned with MSD's multiple spark discharge. Increased spark energy and voltage, along with multiple spark capabilities, help improve the combustion process of the fuel mixture to create an efficient burn. This results in improved throttle response, smooth idle and quick starts, plus increased high rpm performance!
98-02 LS1/LS6 MSD Multiple Spark Coil Kit (Set of 8 | WS6store.com
98-02 LS1/LS6 MSD Multiple Spark Coil Kit (Set of 8 | WS6store.com
Obviously need to sort the sump oil issue first.
Its coming together, makes you feel drained where it's almost there, but not quite.
AmericanThunder
Super Moderator
Lotsa ££££ or perhaps $$$$
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