Fitting Torque Arm and Lower Control Arms with Reloacatrion brackets.

[TransAmDan]

Okay, just getting stuff down from the attic to take to the garage to then access the parts I have and read instructions.

The rear control arms I have are these. Not read instructions yet, but I guess I will want the greese nipples facing downward for easy access, but does the rotating joint end go the axle end or the body end? I will read instructions over dinner, but just though I'd ask the questions incase I dont find the answer elsewhere.

I will be doing photos as I go.

I'll only do a couple of hours tonight and the rest some other time.

 

[TransAmDan]

Okat the way round they state is the 'rod end' goes towards the rear axle.
Now I would say this rod has two ends, so do they mean the adjustable bit toward the rear axle? That's what I'm going with for now.

 

[TransAmDan]

Warm in the garage, opened the big door, no breeze.

 

[TransAmDan]

My collection of parts. No rush to fit them. An hour or so to night, then more during the week.

 

[TransAmDan]

Off road springs fitted.

 

[AmericanThunder]

so do they mean the adjustable bit toward the rear axle? That's what I'm going with for now.

Yes. The “rod” is the type of end fitted.

 

[saleen 192]

floor needs a paint dan,

 

[TransAmDan]

floor needs a paint dan,

Yep, plan to put down constrete sealer, and then the rubber floor.

 

[TransAmDan]

A couple of bolts at the back to remove the torque arm

Will remove the rubber another day as the new one is a different shape.

New rubber mount, along with plenty of instructions.

Old next to the new.

 

[AmericanThunder]

You didn’t get a dial gauge?
Your not gonna know whether your factory or off by a mile.

 

[TransAmDan]

I'm aiming for factory until you pop round to set it up.
I can get enough measurements from the old one for now.

 

[TransAmDan]

Next question will be the relocation brackets.
The car is lower than stock by about 10mm, but not as low as it used to be about 30mm.
So as the relocation brackets have 3 holes. I'm thinking of going for the one nearest the stock position. I havn't measured the hole distance to give all the info yet.

The stock position of the trailing arms are pretty much level. So what's to be gained by using these brackets, I guess by when you accelerate and the car squats then having these at a particular setting helps traction/and deliver force to the body to move the car forward?

 

[AmericanThunder]

When you lower the car, the LCA’s no longer slope downwards towards the rear. They are likely to be level or in cases of extreme lowering even slope uphill. The downward angle contributes greatly to traction and this is what they are for.
As for how much, as you have deduced it depends on how much you lowered but my best guess would be middle or lower holes.

 

[TransAmDan]

Thanks Dave, after reading the below Im also thinking middle or lower. Found some info on Ls1tech.

Lowered Vehicles: We do not recommend lowering a 3rd or 4th generation F-Body without lower control arm relocation brackets due to the compromise in the geometry on the instant center. Brackets will significantly improve instant center position, eliminate wheel hop and increase traction. Brackets installed will also help 60-foot times of .10 or better, lower ETs and increase track consistency--a must for all lowered vehicles!

Non-Lowered Vehicles: Product installed on a stock height vehicle will also see a great increase in traction by lowering the rearward angle of the lower control arm, allowing more force to be placed on the rear tires. Relocation brackets have two settings to allow the lower control arm to be lowered either 2" or 3", depending on your preference. Settings are placed in a correct pattern that will allow use of all OEM control arms or any aftermarket control arm (brackets do not require a longer control arm.) Brackets installed on a non-lowered F-Body provide a .10 or better 60-foot; reduction and an increase in track consistency.

 

[AmericanThunder]

I’d go lower hole. Maximise the effort with no negatives.

 

[TransAmDan]

In my lunch break, I'll nip out there and remove my torque arm poly bush mount ready to insert the new one. The old one is designed for the pressed steel, the new one is for a tubular torque arm. So II need to fit a new bush, even though the old is only a couple of years old.

 

[TransAmDan]

Torque arm ready to go on.

Greesed up the poly mount and slid the torque arm in the mount and buttoned up the clamp. Removing the old mount was very fiddly, just about get finger tips on the nut, event tried removing the whole mount assembly but to do the the gearbox needs to be lowered from the tunnel. So I had to put up with the fiddly bit. Best part of 30mins just to swap out the poly mount.

I do like the look of it, all tightened up and ready to go.

Clearance around the drive shaft is good to, rotated the wheels. Currently set for stock position.

 

[AmericanThunder]

Once the lockdown is lifted I’ll head down with my dial gauge and get that pinion angle set correctly.
You’ll need to get both front and rear suspension complete first though.

 

[an88fiero]

Once the lockdown is lifted I’ll head down with my dial gauge and get that pinion angle set correctly.
You’ll need to get both front and rear suspension complete first though.

Yay - roadtrip

 

[renchero]

Dan in your last picture the 2 nut are not holding correctly studs/bolts should protrude through the nut .